Lace Making

December 2003

A Short History of Lace making

Earliest records show a kind of knotted fringing used as decoration in the wrappings of ancient Egyptian mummies and also on the statues of classical Greece and Rome. This fringing is, however, more akin to macramé than to lace as we know it.

Lace making developed from drawn thread work, the stitches becoming more and more divorced from the backing material, as the designs got more complicated. The ultimate beauty was considered to be the Venetian Gros Point which reached its peak at around the time of the Renaissance. As demand changed from heavy ecclesiastical usage to the lesser requirements of personal adornment so the character of the lace was changed.

As lace spread from Italy through France and the Low Countries, it became possible to spin much finer threads in the cooler and damper atmosphere. The techniques employed were developed in different ways in different areas, and thus the laces came to be known by their place of manufacture.

It is not certain just when or by whom lace was introduced into this country, but tradition has it that Queen Catherine of Aragon brought a lace maker with her in 1531. Some credence was given to this idea by the fact that there is a type of lace called "Queen Catherine" lace and there is also a stitch called "Kat" stitch. In addition, lace makers kept St. Catherine's day as a holiday - calling it Cattens. Another theory has it that lace was brought into Britain by Flemish immigrants. There is, however, no conclusive proof to support either theory and modern historians tend to think that lace making just evolved through trade and contact with other countries. There are a number of references in the late 16th Century to 'bone' lace. This could be either that the bobbins were made of ox bone, or that, along the coast, fish bones were used as pins. In Shakespeare's play 'Twelfth Night' there is a mention of the 'free maids that weave their thread with bone', which suggests that his audiences would understand the allusion.

The period of greatest prosperity was during the Napoleonic wars, when no foreign laces could be imported. There was, however, a decline in the second half of the last century when machine made laces took over. The industry never recovered from this blow and now lace making is a non-commercial hobby, which is once again proving very popular.

The Craven Guild of Lace makers.

The beautiful art of lace making has enjoyed something of a revival over the past few years and an increasing number of people are finding it to be an absorbing hobby. Craft classes run by colleges have declined markedly due to a number of reasons and many teachers have turned to the private sector. This has advantages in that classes can be kept lower, and also prices less.

In March 1986 a group of lace makers decided to form a self- help group to take in lace makers from Skipton and the surrounding areas. Since then, numbers have continued to grow. The aims of the group are

• To promote the making of lace
• To organise exhibitions and displays of lace
• To meet on a regular basis for a social day
• To invite speakers and tutor group meetings
• To further our knowledge and experience of lace making

We organise various coach trips throughout the year to Lace Days and to exhibitions, and many members attend courses around the country that deal with the making of different types of lace.
Lace making encompasses many different styles!
Besides working with the bobbins, there is needle lace, knitted lace, netting, crochet and tatting. All are forms of lace making.

So, if you are interested in any of these crafts, please join us. We are always willing to take on new members.

Fees are £5 per annum with an attendance fee of £1 per session.

The group meets on the third Wednesday of each month in the Reading Room of the Rest Centre, Swadford Street, Skipton - between 10am and 4pm. Refreshments are available at reasonable rates. Please come along.

With grateful thanks to Liz Fryers and the Craven Lace Makers Guild

Pictures by CragFace

"The beautiful art of lace making has enjoyed something of a revival over the past few years and an increasing number of people are finding it to be an absorbing hobby "

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Links

The Lace Guild

Museum

Honiton lace